[Amelia Emerson]

Dress to Impress in the late 18^th Century

Because I wanted a snappy title

By: Neff



Here you will find a rather condensed guide to dressing your character appropriately, and even though there are almost 50 images in this handy guide it is not the be-all and end-all of 18^th century clothing, nor does it cover everything. This being said, it will bring a touch of accuracy to the roleplay, as well as help give you a visual of what your character and everyone else’s character looks like.

Now, almost all of these images are taken by me* and are of my families personal collection (some made by my mother/close family friends), and all the information is drawn from books and discussions with professionals in the field of historic clothing. It took me eight hours straight to write this, take the pictures, edit them, up load and format. This means I don’t want to see this anywhere else, call me paranoid but this is a guest friendly board and I’d rather my work not be nabbed.
(* anything not mine is marked with a star)

I’ve split the information up into sections so you can just use the find tool (control/command+f) to get to what you want. If you want to know about anything else not explained here or have questions in general, pm me I will be more than happy to answer them.

You might be wondering, why I’m giving adult fashion for pre-teens and teens; because passed the age of about three children dressed like adults (sans things like stays), just smaller.


Table of Contents

• 1.0 GIRLS
  
  • Undergarments
    
    
  • Low Class
    
    
  • Middle Class
    
    
  • High Class
    
    
  • Shoes
    
    
  • Hats
    
    
  • Other
  
  
  
• 2.0 BOYS
  
  • Undergarments
    
    
  • Low Class
    
    
  • Middle Class
    
    
  • High Class
    
    
  • Shoes
    
    
  • Hats
    
    
  • Other

[Amelia Emerson]

1.0 GIRLS

1.1 Undergarments

Let me tell you, this is a huge can of worms. Girls wore a lot under their clothing, and the richer you were the more layers you had. The fashionable shape of the day was hips. Huge, god-like hips; hips so large you couldn’t fit though the door. But I am getting ahead of myself, let’s start at the beginning. (Note: When I talk about the waist I mean just below the belly button.)

Shift
This is a shift. It is a very simple piece of clothing. Linen or flannal no matter your class, though how nice it is depends on how rich you are (you’ll be hearing this phrase a lot, get used to it now). It went down to about your knees, tied either in the front of the neck line or at the shoulders. Sleeve length varied upon how much fabric on hand when it was made and what you wear it with. Most of them had straight sleeves that went to your elbow- not sure why this one does do that.

Stays
Unlike in Pirates of the Caribbean, you usually don’t where stays so tight that you pass out arbitrarily. Yes, you where more likely to pass out- but these are not corsets. Speaking from experience, they are actually quite comfortable. Of course, female workers where their stays looser but if they fit you properly, stays do the job with little problems- save you can’t bend at the waist. Stays come in a lot of patterns, fabrics and boning (called such because it’s kept stiff by thin strips of animal bones that run through the stitching) and the nicer the materials, the richer you where. They are tied in the back, and you’d better hope you have someone to help you- because they are a pain to do on your own. You can get ones that tie in the front, but they are called jumps. Jumps look the same as stays save for they are tied at the front and have straps over the shoulders. Jumps are perfectly acceptable for the time period.

Hoop Petticoats
This is more of a lower and middle class thing. To give you the large hips I was talking about at the introduction you can use this. It goes over your stays at the waist and then you’re skirts go over it, and it gives you hips, but not the drastic Marie Antoinette ones. This is good for work or women who don’t come from money.

Panniers
Pronounced panyays; it’s French. These do the same job as the hoop petticoats but on a much grander scale. There is a reason these are for non-work dresses, they make movement that much harder. Middle class and even the richer of the lower class would have these for their best dresses, but the upper class woman would where them all the time.

Petticoats
If you don’t have money for hoop petticoats, you can just layer plain skirts called petticoats to give the hip effect. This is also nice in the winter when it is cold because of the layers. More on skirts later.

Socks
Wool or silk if you have the money; nicer the richer you are. They are often white or off-white, but can be any colour you have dye for, even stripped. The moneyed types will sometimes embroider the tops of them, mostly for practice. No one really see’s them. They go up to or passed the knee.

[Amelia Emerson]

1.2 Low Class

So here we have the lowest beggar it poor farmers and simple labourer’s wife and daughters. Almost all the fabrics are plain and course, but you do still get some patterns and colours, mostly stripes and easy to acquire dies. Blues, browns, yellows, reds, un-dyed and stripped are all common. You also get a lot of wool and linen.

Skirts
So, guess what skirts are made of? Linen! Usually one straight colour, sometimes stripped or checked, this was often the only decorated piece of clothing on the lower class woman’s body. Tied with a draw string at the side, it went over the stays. Simplistic things, skirts. For the lower class the skirts rarely touch the ground, often stopping just above the ankle.

Country Woman’s Jacket
Kinda like a miniature dress. Often some of the nicest clothing for the lowest of the low, however this would be common dress for farmer’s wives and daughters. All the fashion of the dresses with considerably less fabric. They were often plain and simple.

Short Gowns
A deceiving name, they are very un-gown like. A jacket shaped piece of clothing with a simple hawthorn pin to keep it together. Linen or wool, they always contrasted with the skirt. Very common.

Aprons
You know what an apron looks like. These where made out of, surprise, linen and worn over top of skirts and whatever kind of jacket. They would be dirty, stained, maybe burned. Well used to be sure. Often they would have been white, but sometimes you would get stripped or checked. Never would it match the patterns of the skirts.

This post has been edited by Amelia Emerson: 23 August 2010 - 03:00 PM

[Amelia Emerson]

1.3 Middle Class

The middle class would be those who own shops or work skilled trades. Depending on who you work for, some servants are middle class. Now you start getting pretty things, more patterns and colours as well as full dresses and much softer wool’s and linens. There are now full dresses on the richer and little ruffles. You are more likely to get new or gently used clothing in middle class, it’s also cleaner. Middle class with still wear nicer short gowns and country woman’s jackets.

Skirts
Again, I know. Now you might get heavier fabrics, nicer colours and maybe a little bit of silk for their nicest dresses. You even get bit of embroidery on some of the everyday skirts. Still, mostly linen but these are more likely to reach the ground, as they probably have the money for enough fabric.

Dresses x
Now we get full length dresses. Made of linen, they can be plain or patterned, sometimes even having pretty ruffles on the collar and cuffs. These will reach the floor, at about the same length as the skirts, sometimes a little bit longer in the back. You wont find that there is a lot of decoration, they are often simple and functional so that the girl can move about and do things without her sleeves getting into the batter.

Aprons
Yes, the middle class has them too. They wear them under the jacket, but still over the skirt. It makes them look more polished in high class, even though they are not and chances are the aprons are still used. They do tend to be cleaner and in better repair. You will get patches over stains and burns.

[Amelia Emerson]

1.4 High Class

Ah, now we get to the high class. This is my personal favourite for clothing, because you get all the luxurious fabrics, colours and patterns. Now things are embroidered and for form, not function. This is when you get beautiful pieces of clothing in every colour under the sun (Not purple, that is for royalty). You will still get a few high class women wearing country women’s jackets, except for these will be much fancier. You no longer have aprons, because they don’t need them.

Skirts
You still get linen, but you also get a lot of silks. They act the same way as all the other skirts, but they always reach the ground, sometimes trailing. They will often have ruffles, layers or embroidery on them. Fancy-smancy.

Dresses x x
The dresses for the rich come in a variety of styles, from straight gowns to sack-backs. They tend to be ornate, decorated and embroidered, sometimes with small gems or pearls. This is the kind of thing you see Kira Knightly wearing in the Duchess. They tend to trail along the ground and have a lot of ruffles along the collar and cuffs, sometimes even tassels and trim. Sky’s the limit with these things.

[Amelia Emerson]

1.5 Shoes

Now we get to the shoes, who doesn’t love shoes? Most shoes were made of black leather and were buckled. Of course, if you couldn’t afford shoes you went without, and then you get hobbit feet- there are worse fates.

Buckled shoes
These are the shoes of the low and middle class. They were usually rough, and dirty, though they would be more polished the richer you where. The buckles would have been made of brass, or maybe silver if you were lucky. Simple, functional shoes.

Heeled Shoes
These could be made of leather, or quilted cloth, fastened with buckles or ribbons. It depended entirely on the person, how much money they had and what you planned to wear with them. This was the normal shoe of the high class, though women in the middle class would have them too. They had a charming heal that is actual quite comfortable.

1.6 Hats

It was VERY improper for girls to go about without some head covering. So hats are very much loved by the people.

Straw Hats
They could be moulded into an odd, wave like shape or left as a flat circle. You could wear them plain, or decorate them with anything from paper flowers to feathers. They were the base for most women of every class, though how nice and decorated the hat was would depend on how rich you where. They could be held on with either a ribbon or hat pin. Hat pins poke through the hat on both sides and go through your hair with would be tied up on your head.

Felt Hats
Same idea as the straw hats, but they were more expensive and made of felt. These would always be decorated rather extensively.

Mob Caps
White linen caps that vary in size and style. Their main function is giving woman a place to keep their hair to keep it from bothering them, thus they were often worn by working women in middle or low class. Made of linen or flannel.

Pinner Caps
Here is the mob cap of the rich. They sit on the top of your head, small and often looking like doilies, they are held on by twists of the hair often looking ornate and pretty. Good for younger, unmarried girls or the more active high class.

1.7 Other

This is for anything I couldn’t fit into the above categories.

Pockets
Huzzah, a place to put things! These are easy to make. They are linen and girls embroider them and wear them outside the skirts before they get married to show off how good they are at embroidery, once she was married she would keep them under the skirts. You would have two, one of each side and they hold a fair amount.

Fisues and Shawls
A fisue is a white piece of linen you wrap around either your shoulder or entire torso. They are for modesty and convince of keeping fabric where it should be. A lot of hire class women didn’t use it, especially in their mid teen to mid twenties. Shawls were an appropriate substitute for them during the cold winter months.

Baskets
Straw baskets, simple enough. Often circle shaped, you will sometimes get square or rectangle ones. The richer would have cloth inside to keep whatever they were carrying from touching the straw and potentially getting ruined.

Wigs
Yes, especially in France and older high class women, wigs were very fashionable and often extravagant. I would not suggest wearing wigs at Hogwarts- they take a lot of people to get it on, off, and to take care of it. They are very ridiculous, ladies wigs. Sometime people would make their wigs into a scene, a French woman once having a working water wheel embedded in her fake hair.

Chatelaines
Chains you hang from the waist of your skirts. They hold all you need for sewing, plus a watch if you can afford it. Very popular in the working classes.

[Amelia Emerson]

2.0 BOYS


2.1 Undergarments

Boys have vastly less in the way of undergarments. It’s almost not worth mentioning. They had under drawers, which were essentially a shorter pair of breeches made of flannel and using wooden buttons instead of metal ones. The poor wouldn’t have them, they’d just run about commando. They also have socks, same as the girls but boy sized, but theirs would be held up by visible black miniature belts on their calves called garter straps. Nothing interesting going on under boys clothing I’m afraid.

2.2 Lower Class

Lower class boys are much less decorated then the girls, but they share the same fabrics and patterns. It would still be hand downs, dirty, worn and all the wonderful things that happen to clothing when you’ve been wearing it for a long time.

Work Shirts
Often they wouldn’t have nice, white shirts, but indeed have work shirts. They would be colourful and patterned to hide the dirt and grime, and often be patched up. The buttons on the collar and cuffs would be wooden. It looks like a modern button down, except that it doesn’t button down, it only has one button at the top and the sleeves are puffier. They are almost always tucked into the breeches, occasionally the really dirt poor ones will have it hanging out, but it’s considered being only partly dressed.

Breeches x
The breeches of the lower class would not be white; they would be brown or off white, maybe even grey. They would be linen or possible unlined wool (this will mean something later) for the cold winter months. The buttons would be pewter. You’ll notice the convenient flap at the front where it does up, that was a kindness from the creators, because breeches are frustrating to get on and off. They tend to fall down, so most men of all classes have suspenders.

Vests
Some lower class with have them, but they will be thicker linen and very short, going down about as far as the jacket.

Hunting Frocks
Originally for hunting, they were adopted by the lower classes for their durability and function. Made of canvas they were heavy, surprisingly warm and almost water proof. the layers at the shoulders made it to it was very unlikely that the wearer would get when regardless of snow, sleet, rain or hail. They would stand up to the trials of a working life.

[Amelia Emerson]

2.3 Middle Class

Now you start to get lined wool, meaning that instead of having just scratchy wool against your thigh, you have a lining of linen to keep it from itching incessantly. It is a wonderful thing that the middle class can afford. You also get vests and waistcoats.

Shirt
Now we get linen shirts, white and clean. Still wooden buttons, but no one doesn’t have them. Sometimes they will have ruffles along the collar for a fancy touch. Otherwise, identical to the works shirts.

Breeches
Now you have the lined wool breeches, as well as nicer and white breeches. You might get silver buttons, but chances are they are still pewter. Now you’re breeches might have pockets for clocks or change.

Vests and Waistcoats
Difference? Waist coats have a folded down collar. Really they are the same thing. Usually lined wool, sometimes you get linen but it’s uncommon. You’ll still get pewter buttons, but brass is more popular. Most men in middle class or higher will always wear a vest because it is polite. The vest can be longer now, but you still get short ones that function just as well.

Jackets x
Usually rather undecorated, they are lined wool, longer, reaching as low down as the knees. The button could be anything from pewter to gold, depending on the amount of money you had. Jackets were rarely worn inside by the middle class, but if the weather would allow they were worn almost constantly outside. They would be rather heavy, but repel wind, rain and cold.

[Amelia Emerson]

2.4 High Class

It wasn’t uncommon for high class men to be dressed as flamboyantly as their wives. They would have as much embroidery and gems, often with ruffles, fulffles and everything in between. They would strut about like peacocks in their silk and fine wools.

Shirts
Very much like the middle class, only now you will get silk and even puffier sleeves. Buttons are still wood though, it’s simpler that way. There will be a lot more ruffles on not only the collar but the cuffs- and they will be a contender to the girl’s ruffles.

Breeches
Now you will get more silver and gold buttons, as well as silk breeches to go with the fine linen and lined wool. Sometimes instead of buttons at the knees, you will get ribbons as well.

Vests and Waistcoats
Now they start to get fancier buttons and embroidery, and you will still get wool and linen, and now you add silk into the mix.

Jackets
Now, the high class took the simplicity and function of the middle class jackets, and made them very flamboyant and colourful. Using quilted fabrics as well as wool and silk, and covering it in such intricate embroidery a seamstress could eat for months off of that jacket. You also get higher collar to mimic the military style, as officers were often popular with the higher class and almost always high class themselves, so they bring back their military style.

[Amelia Emerson]

2.5 Shoes

The men’s shoes are very much like the woman’s shoes, save they also have laces and boots. Still black leather though and you still don’t get shoes if you have no money, more hobbit feet.

Brogans
The working boot; used by solider and farmer alike. A good, durable boot it can stand up to most everything, and sometimes you will have hobnails. These are the horse shoes for people and give the boot a bit more friction, they also make a clicking sound that is very opposing when on hard flooring or ground.

Buckled Shoes
Same as the girls, only the higher class would have polished shoes, them very rarely getting dirty. And much like the heeled shoes of the girls, they can also be fastened by ribbon instead of buckles, but they are most always black leather.

2.6 Hats

Men like hats too- though they are often less extravagant then the woman’s hats, they can still get pretty ridiculous. Men wear hats for connivance or to show status.

Straw Hat
Often less decorated, the serve to keep the sun and rain out of farmers and fishermen’s eyes. Only the lower and middle class really use them, but they are a wonderfully functionally hat for hard work.

Tricorn
The most fashionable hat for men in the 18^th century, they are both form a function. They look good on nearly everyone and it keeps the rain from getting on you from its unique design. Made of felt and trimmed and decorated with whatever the wearer wishes, they are the perfect status symbol. Use it to show you’re rank, wealth or sensibility.

Cloth and fur hats
Not so much for public use, they are a comfortable and decorative way to keep your head warm in your home. Silk and beaver fur was favoured at this time, and they would always been suitably adorned.

2.7 Other

Once again, things that don’t fit else where

Dicky
A little thing you tie around your neck to simulate having a ruffled shirt. It can also make your ruffles larger if you really need to look important.

Haversack
Another military style, haversacks are a great way to carry around things that won’t fit in your pockets. They would be common among all classes for their pure connivance.

Neck Clothes
Black lengths of fabric, usually silk or white lengths of fabric usually linen. You wrap it around your neck to mimic the military style.

Pocket watches
Very popular with everyone, it is a very good way to show status. They don’t have covers over them and are often inlaid in wood.

Wigs
Men’s wigs are simple to wear usually, though the government officials tend to have a harder time with it. Most wear short wigs with a queue, sometimes powdered, sometimes not. It’s often a choice for middle class, but for high class its almost mandatory, especially if you have any ties to the navy where it was made popular.